2,615 m
1,853 m
0
6.6
13
20
26.21 km
邻近 Hetaoyuan, Yunnan (China)

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Tiger leaping gorge, one day hike at higher path including return hike along the road.
I stayed at the Tina's Guesthouse. Tina's guesthouse is located along the main road and easily accessible by car It has a decent size car park which also is serving as a bus stop to daily buses taking backpackers between Tina's and Lijiang.
We have arrived at Tina's by car late evening one day before. The drive through the winding unprotected road was a bit scary and we saw few wrecks down the cliff. Signs of fresh landslides partially blocking the road in few locations further raised our hair. On the other hand, views are totally worth it - just drive slow.
I started the hike before the sunrise. Entrance to the trail is just in front of the guesthouse. The path starts steep with a few hundred meters climb. Once you reach the actual train it is very leveled and easy to walk, although in some areas the trail feels little dangerous: it becomes quite narrow in few places, there is one or two waterfalls you need to cross which make the narrow path slippery. You are constantly walking along a steep cliff, but as long as you are careful and don't slip it is not really dangerous. I have seen families with young kids doing the hike.
After about 3.5 hours of vigorous walking i reached my lunch breakfast destination: The Tea Horse Guesthouse. It is more likely to take average hiker 4h or more to make this section, especially if one would take some breaks.
Along this first section I only encountered one group of 3 girls and one Sheppard with a heard of about 30 sheep. After rather long and slow breakfast I set off.
After Tea Horse the road started to climb up a bit all the way to the top of 28 bends. This 1.5h climb takes the path through some forests that are home to the most densely populated colonies of mosquito i have ever encountered. And those mosquitoes are hungry and not going to leave you for hours. I have picked a short twig and kept fanning and smacking my self rhythmically at every step to keep a misquote free breathing zone in front of my face. Honestly this was something i was not prepared for.
At this point forest has cleared out and I have reached to highest point of the hike - to top of the 28 bends. There is a nice viewing rock here, however it is closed with a piece of timber plank. At this point there was a small stand where one local lady was selling fruits, drinks and local ganja. She advised me not to enter the viewing platform as its dangerous, but i still did although i did not dare to go to the edge. It is a spectacular view both directions of the gorge, but it is also a wedge shaped rock projecting away from the mountain, and its edges are vertical drops of few hundred meters. Due to its shape winds are very strong , the width of the rock is quite narrow but it projects quite far and at some point there is nothing to hold on to. All in all it is a little nerve wrecking spot, and i am not surprised there was a plank closing it.
From that point 28 bends have started and also have the crowds. Walking from Tina's to this point apart from one billion of starving mosquito I literally met only handful of people. Except walking short sections of the hike on a dirt roads when crossing villages, the path was actually rather small, wild and natural.
In the next hour or so of my descent however i encounter around 10 western tourists hiking up in couples of alone. I have also unfortunately encounter at lest several groups of mainly Chinese tourists being hoisted up the stair on horses lead by the local guides. Although the 28 bends path is made of concrete, it is still very narrow and only one horse can fit at a time. Those horses are quite easy to get scared and i have to say it doesn't look safe to me at all to be riding them. When met with the first group i have tried to walk by the horse but it got scared and did few rather jerky steps which really freaked me out as in case this horse would loose its grip it would not only got itself rolling down the cliff to its death but also take a tourist riding it with it. From that point i always let the path to horses and stepped away to let them pass - which was quite frustrating as it seemed there is no end to them.
At the bottom of 28 bends there is a Naxi Guesthouse. I have walked into its premises for a moment. It has very nice flowery courtyard and is also accessible by road if you would ever want to stay here. At this point i had a choice to either hike along the path all the way to Qiaotou or descent down to the road along the river and start walking back.
At the end i decided to walk down, which was to my surprise much longer descent than i was expecting. Walking down on concrete steep road was quite hard to the knees. There is also some construction site of some sort as at least several concrete mixer trucks pass by on this narrow road. Looking backwards i think it would be more fun to carry on along the train all the way back to town and take a taxi back instead.
Eventually i reached the main road at the lower area of the gorge and walked along it heading back to Tina. Once crossed the main scenic spot and the tuner there was very little traffic and the walk was quite nice. There is some old path circumnavigating the tunnel, but after about 50m its section has fell down the cliff and it is no longer safe to cross. Also it is completely cut off from reaching the road on the other side of the tunnel - so stay away from it and just walk through the tunnel instead.
After about 8km or so walking along the road and after about 27km of total walking i had a call with my friend who stayed in the Tina's guesthouse for the day and we decided to drive to another scenic spot 70km north. As i still had about 8km to walk i have decided to hitch hike. I let few of the local mini-vans pass and raised my thumb up on the first civilian looking car - which has stopped for me. It was the fasted hitch hiking success in my life.c Not sure if i was lucky or its a norm here - but i was super happy to find a kind people who helped me get back to my guesthouse faster. It was a family of 4 traveling all the way from Chengdu. 15 minutes later i was back at Tina's.
老虎跳跃峡谷,有一天在更高的路径上徒步,包括沿路返回徒步旅行。
我住在蒂娜宾馆。 Tina的宾馆位于主干道旁,驾车可轻松抵达。酒店设有一个体面的停车场,也是前往Tina's和丽江之间的背包客的每日巴士的巴士站。
我们前一天晚上乘车到达蒂娜的。穿过蜿蜒无保护的道路的车道有点可怕,我们在悬崖上看到了几个残骸。在少数地方部分阻挡道路的新鲜山体滑坡的迹象进一步抬高了我们的头发。另一方面,观点是完全值得的 - 只是开车慢。
我在日出前开始徒步旅行。小径的入口就位于宾馆前面。几百米的攀登路径开始陡峭。一旦你到达实际的火车,它就会非常平整,也很容易走路,虽然在某些地区,小径感觉不太危险:它在很少的地方变得非常狭窄,你需要穿过一两个瀑布,这使得狭窄的小路变得滑溜。你经常沿着陡峭的悬崖行走,但只要你小心并且不滑倒它就不是很危险。我看到有小孩的家庭正在徒步旅行。
经过约3.5小时的有力步行,我到达了我的午餐早餐目的地:茶马宾馆。更有可能将平均徒步旅行者4小时或更长时间用于制作此部分,特别是如果需要休息一下。
沿着这第一部分,我只遇到了一组3个女孩和一个谢泼德,听说过大约30只羊。经过相当漫长而缓慢的早餐,我出发了。
在茶马之后,道路开始向上攀升到28个弯道的顶部。这个1.5小时的攀登穿过了一些森林,这些森林是我遇到过的人口密度最高的蚊子栖息地的所在地。那些蚊子很饿,几个小时都不会离开你。我已经选了一根短枝,在每一步都保持煽动和节奏自我节奏,以保持在我面前的一个错误的自由呼吸区域。老实说,这是我没有准备好的。
此时森林已经清理完毕,我已经达到了加息的最高点 - 达到28个弯道的顶部。这里有一块漂亮的观景岩,但它是用一块木板封闭的。此时有一个小摊位,当地一位女士正在卖水果,饮料和当地的大麻。她告诉我不要进入观景台这是危险的,但我仍然这样做,虽然我不敢走到边缘。这是峡谷两个方向的壮观景色,但它也是一个远离山脉的楔形岩石,其边缘是几百米的垂直落差。由于它的形状,风很强,岩石的宽度很窄,但是它投射得很远,在某些时候没有什么可以坚持的。总而言之,它是一个小小的神经破坏点,我并不惊讶有一块木板关闭它。
从那时起,已经开始了28个弯道并且还有人群。从Tina走到这一点,除了十亿只饥饿的蚊子,我真的遇到了少数几个人。除了在穿越村庄时在泥泞道路上徒步走路的短路段,路径实际上相当小,野性和自然。
在接下来的一个小时左右,我遇到了大约10名西方游客独自夫妻徒步旅行。不幸的是,我还遇到了几个主要是中国游客的团体被当地导游带领的马楼梯。虽然28弯道是由混凝土制成的,但它仍然非常狭窄,一次只能装一匹马。那些马很容易被吓到,我不得不说我骑它们看起来并不安全。当我遇到第一组时,我曾试图骑着马走路,但它很害怕并且做了一些相当生涩的步骤,真的吓坏了我,因为如果这匹马松开它的抓地力,它不仅会让自己从悬崖上滚下来死亡,但也带一个游客骑它。从那时起,我总是走马路并走开让它们通过 - 这令人非常沮丧,因为它似乎没有尽头。
纳西宾馆位于28个弯道的底部。我走了一会儿。它有非常漂亮的华丽庭院,如果你想留在这里也可以通过公路到达。在这一点上,我可以选择沿着小路一路徒步到桥头,或者沿着河边下降并开始向后走。
最后我决定走下去,这让我惊讶的是下降的时间比我预期的要长。走在混凝土陡峭的道路上对膝盖很难。还有一些建筑工地,因为在这条狭窄的道路上至少有几辆混凝土搅拌车经过。向后看,我认为沿着火车一直往城镇继续乘坐出租车会更有趣。
最后,我到达了峡谷下部的主要道路,然后沿着它前往蒂娜。一旦越过主要景点和调谐器,交通非常少,步行非常好。有一条古老的小路环绕着隧道,但是在大约50米之后,它的路段已经从悬崖上掉下来,不再安全。它也完全切断了到达隧道另一侧的道路 - 所以远离它并且只是穿过隧道。
沿着这条路行走大约8公里左右,经过大约27公里的行走后,我和我的朋友打电话,他的朋友一天都住在蒂娜的宾馆,我们决定开车到70公里以北的另一个景点。因为我还有大约8公里的步行路程,所以我决定搭便车。我让一些当地的小型货车经过并抬起我的拇指放在第一辆平民车上 - 这对我来说已经停了下来。这是我生命中最快的成功。不确定我是幸运还是这里的常态 - 但我很高兴找到一位善良的人帮助我更快地回到宾馆。这是一个四口之家,从成都一路旅行。 15分钟后,我回到了蒂娜的。
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Tina's guesthouse early departure
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Tina's guesthouse gate, entering the trail
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Steep Climb, the first ascent up to the main trail
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On the trail, looking back towards Tina's down bellow
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Slippery stones when crossing small waterfall
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Some small temple with evil noisy dog, and woman who keeps him from biting tourists (I hope)
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Waterfall, more slippery stones
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Cross Road? I took the lower path, hopefully they merge later
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Through the village the roads are wider so even cards can reach here
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This village has some really nice roads, i guess there must be quarry at the top of this road
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defiantly some industry at the top
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Walking along the cliff,
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Views are open both directions
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and again, some solid roads, even a restroom
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Tea Horse Guesthouse: the place i will have my breakfast
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Big noodles and coffee (noddles were too big and was little heavy to walk after)
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Entering forest, here i will be thrown alive into mosquitoes furnace
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Observation Platform Inn - not sure about the view, but they will defiantly sell you some drinks
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Views are opening, less mosquitoes
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Path gently climbing up
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Here is where i lost 5l of blood and fathered few billions of baby mosquitoes
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Trail opens up again, we have reached the top viewing spot. The highest point of the hike. From here we will go down 28
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And we have reached the Top, Here is a lady with drinks, fruits and ganja and lovely smile
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Mid stop at 28 bends, fruits, drinks and of course local ganja
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The Map, at the crossroad at the bottom of 28 bends
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Naxi Guesthouse - courtyard
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Main road along the bottom of the gorge
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Is Gorge also a Dump ?! Looks like some locals have found an effective way of dealing with garbage
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Surveyors in action, soon there will be no Gorge here any more as we know it. Dam is soon completed and we will have lake
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Main Scenic Spot of the Raging Jinsha River
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Walk the tunnel, don't try the external path
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Road to Tea horse GH, and Mountain Beauty In
sebez_93sebez 2019-1-3
Hello krzy
4 questions:
1- What time did you leave the Guesthouse ??
2- do you think it is possible to return at tina's for the 3:30 bus to lijiang ? (return by car from the main road like you just at the tunnel) take your level to answer (how old are you ?)
3- how do you reach the guest the day before, by private car ?? From lijiang ? Is it possible by bus ?
4- do you have the e-mail adress of Tina ??
Regards and happy New year
Krzy 2019-1-3
Hi Sebez
Happy New Year to you as well.
1. I started recording GPS trail at 6:51am. I woke up when it was still darkish outside, but it left when it was already bright as you can see on photos. If you are there in June as well, you might be able to leave even 45 minutes earlier i think. In January the day is shorter over 2h so might need to wait a little.
2. I have reached the tunnel at 2:30pm. If you match my speed you would have still one hour to drive back to the hostel to catch the bus. I have spend over 45 minutes eating breakfast at the TeaHorse where you could definitely save some time if you would want to. For the rest of the hike it felt to me that I was pretty much constantly on the move except 20 minutes stop at the top, short detour to see Naxi, and few rather short snack / photo stops. You could skip Naxi but the rest of the hike i think would be hard to save a lot of time, unless you could walk faster.
You can see more details of this hike on Strava https://www.strava.com/activities/1656675168
I am 37 and rather skinny. As a hiker - probably above average but definitely not an athlete. On that day i been using two hiking-poles which helped a lot when climbing and i also packed light. There are couple of climbs during the hike and I was able to keep scrambling up continuously without stopping to catch breath. From what i remember I was pushing myself to walk rather fast until breakfast (first 4h), but later i was quite chilled.
If you think you might need more time you could ask at Tina to pick you up with the car at Naxi for example. They have a car and told me they could pick me up at the end of the trail for 100RMB.
3. We reached Tina by rented Car. I have chinese driving license and rented a car for few days to drive around. There is a regular bus that links Lijiang with Tina but i dont know its schedule. You could check with Tina hostel directly.
4. We have booked Tina on booking.com and so i don't have their email but i do have a phone number +86 187 6088 0888. I also have a Wechat ID of the english speaking gentleman who works there: zql921227052 I suggest use WeChat for any queries
Few more things:
5. The tunnel is where the main and the most popular scenic spot to experience the madness of the river. There is a ticket booth and staircase leading all the way down to the river. It takes about 45 minutes to see this spot. You could rush it in 30 minutes maybe. If you are able to reach the tunnel with some time left I would suggest you to go and see it.
6. If you would be able to take an early bus and arrive at Tina early afternoon - you could perhaps hit the trail already on the first day and stay at TeaHorse. You would need 4h of daylight to walk from Tina to TeaHorse.
7. You could consider reversing the trail and ask Tina's to drive you at the sunrise to
sebez_93sebez 2019-1-4
Hello
Thank you very much for all these precises informations !
I'm 38 year old and i think i'm able to do the first way, i even thought leave the guest at 5:30 or 6 (with head lamp in worst case if it is black...😁)
But I do not have any information on how to get there by bus so I do not know if I'll be able to do this treck ... In any case I keep the hike under the elbow 😉
Many Thanks !
Krzy 2019-1-6
Hi
You can make bus reservation through Tina. Bus takes you from lijiang to Tina directly. First Install WeChat and than add them as your contact. You can find them using their WeChat ID: zlq921227052
Hope that helps
Krzy
patabrava29 2019-7-4
Hi, it's possible to do in october??
patabrava29 2019-7-4
Thanks
Krzy 2019-7-5
Hi PataBrava
yes its should be ok, weather should be warm as it's pretty far south and not very high altitude - but might be a little wet.
When i was there in June there were few partially cleaned landslides on the lower road, during wet season you might have few more.
read more about it here: http://www.yunnanadventure.com/city_list/Tiger-Leaping-Gorge-Weather-&-Climate_147_920.html
patabrava29 2019-7-5
Thanks, my friend