The Door to Hell - Darvaza

The Karakum desert forms much of the landmass of Turkmenistan. Most people connect images of camels with the African Sahel zone or the outback of Australia. In the Karakum, wide areas of fine sand or rock without vegetation give way to steppe with sparse grass, where few black goats try to find food. Further out only camels have a chance.

In the heart of the Karakum is the Darvaza Crater, also dubbed as the Door to Hell. The crater is the result of a gas leak from an abandoned drilling site. As people were concerned about the poisonous gas, they set it on fire, assuming it would burn out in a couple of hours. It has been burning for 40 years.

At weekends there are usually visitors. Very few seem to stay the night, though it is a worthwhile thing to do. As the sun goes, and darkness comes, and then dawn again, the colours change dramatically every minute. Nightfall brings an unearthly glow, a true subterranean fire-work, pun intended. Plan to set the alarm for a few times and before sunrise in order to catch the early cold light. This is the moment to walk over to the southeastern hill top.

We camped nearby and had our picnic ready from the box. In late October, evenings become very cold, near freezing temperatures, especially in cloudless nights. Bring your own firewood, as there is no vegetation nearby. Salted lard on rye bread was a welcome treat, together with soup from chicken that we had bought on our way, while we were waiting for dusk and darkness.

The South-North connector asphalt road from Ashgabat to Derweze (where you leave the asphalt) is okay. Only the access road to the crater may require some 4x4 traction or less air in the tyres.