2015-04-12 阿弥陀北西稜
路线照片
作者
路线统计数据
- 距离
- 6.89 公里
- 累积高度
- 366 米
- 技术难度
- 非常困难
- 海拔下降
- 1,094 米
- 最高海拔
- 2,695 米
- TrailRank
- 61
- 最低海拔
- 1,594 米
- 路线类型
- 单程
- 时间
- 11小时
- 坐标
- 628
- 上传日期
- 2015年4月13日
- 记录日期
- 四月 2015
邻近 Yokomiyama, Nagano (Japan)
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路线照片
行程描述
Mixed climbing to Amidadake North West ridge.
For my first mixed climbing experience, we headed for Amidadake North West ridge, reputed to be the second most technical climb of the Yatsugatake massif, with a crux ranked IV. When the plan to go to Kitadake was cancelled because all the potential member wanted to go to Amidadake, I decided to go as well, not knowing what it was really. I searched for a bit of info and then became nervous about my ability to climb that route, only to discover the very day that I would be leading the whole route... yet while I was doing it I was never bothered and all went smoothly.
Departure Saturday afternoon from Minoto, 2 hours approach on the "highway" to gyoja hut the first section free of snow and then slightly more wintry landscapes appeared under a thick layer of clouds. We camped 15 minutes lower than the hut, on the side of the trail, a sensible choice if one it seeking quite places, indeed around the hut there were no less than 30 tents and it was all bustling with people all waiting for their opportunity the next morning.
Sunday, early rise and start climbing around 4:30 AM, a steep ascent in the forest on hard snow and we quickly passed the tree line. Being on the West side of Yokodake and Akadake we were too low to get a glimpse of the sunrise but the iridescent hues of the skies after so many weekends of bad weather were highly enjoyable.
As we were gearing up for the fist pitch a party of 3 passed us, our team of 5 split in 2 teams, and I was to lead the second team with K-san as second climber while I-san was leading the first team with H-san and Y-san following.
The first two pitches, of grade II presented no difficulty at all. The third pitch was short and we could see the end from the start, it was of grade III and was for this reason more interesting. Pulling the rope when it got tangled around rocks turned out to be more exhausting than climbing itself.
The next pitch was supposed to be very easy before the final and most technical one (grade IV), there I made a mistake, and did the two pitches in one go, and while another party was clustered around the anchors between the 2 pitches I went right on a minor route. Technically it was manageable, a bit harder than the grade III pitch but rope management was a nightmare, it got entangled to the point I had to pull with all my might to get it moving 10 cm at a time. I realized I had to let the other party pass me when I got to an intersection between the normal route and the alternative one I had chosen. This way I was kept waiting at least 15 minutes without a very secure self belay. Once the way was clear I got back to the last 5 meters of grade IV, pulling the rope being the hardest part. I reached the ridge but couldn't make it to the bolts and made do with the ring anchors and pitons placed just at the end of the vertical stretch. From there one leg on each side of the rock I belayed in a much less than comfortable position.
After that it was just walking our way to the summit. The weather had been fantastic, blue skies, absent wind and high temperatures nearing 0 degrees. The snow was softening and on the East ridge it was getting rotten, on our way downhill to Nakadake pass the steep slope forced us to unclimb facing uphill and we had to kick 2 or 3 times for each step to be sure the snow would withstand our weights.
From the pass we went along Nakadake sawa all the way back to the hut. The slope was not so steep so it was even possible to run (at least I found that enjoyable). We returned to the tent and packed all the gear needed to spend the night. I ran most of the way back to the car in 50 minutes (summer course time = 1h40 from the hut so around 1h30 from the tent), at the end I weighted my backpack it read 28 kg. On the way I had passed several people all carrying packs minuscule in comparison with mine. It felt great.
Overall it was a great experience, with great weather.
More pictures here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8dPS_LBwxeLfldxaDBPN1BQcmRGbXRSbVE5eW5QdE8zX0VHckpabk9meVFwekFEN2ZSSE0&authuser=0
For my first mixed climbing experience, we headed for Amidadake North West ridge, reputed to be the second most technical climb of the Yatsugatake massif, with a crux ranked IV. When the plan to go to Kitadake was cancelled because all the potential member wanted to go to Amidadake, I decided to go as well, not knowing what it was really. I searched for a bit of info and then became nervous about my ability to climb that route, only to discover the very day that I would be leading the whole route... yet while I was doing it I was never bothered and all went smoothly.
Departure Saturday afternoon from Minoto, 2 hours approach on the "highway" to gyoja hut the first section free of snow and then slightly more wintry landscapes appeared under a thick layer of clouds. We camped 15 minutes lower than the hut, on the side of the trail, a sensible choice if one it seeking quite places, indeed around the hut there were no less than 30 tents and it was all bustling with people all waiting for their opportunity the next morning.
Sunday, early rise and start climbing around 4:30 AM, a steep ascent in the forest on hard snow and we quickly passed the tree line. Being on the West side of Yokodake and Akadake we were too low to get a glimpse of the sunrise but the iridescent hues of the skies after so many weekends of bad weather were highly enjoyable.
As we were gearing up for the fist pitch a party of 3 passed us, our team of 5 split in 2 teams, and I was to lead the second team with K-san as second climber while I-san was leading the first team with H-san and Y-san following.
The first two pitches, of grade II presented no difficulty at all. The third pitch was short and we could see the end from the start, it was of grade III and was for this reason more interesting. Pulling the rope when it got tangled around rocks turned out to be more exhausting than climbing itself.
The next pitch was supposed to be very easy before the final and most technical one (grade IV), there I made a mistake, and did the two pitches in one go, and while another party was clustered around the anchors between the 2 pitches I went right on a minor route. Technically it was manageable, a bit harder than the grade III pitch but rope management was a nightmare, it got entangled to the point I had to pull with all my might to get it moving 10 cm at a time. I realized I had to let the other party pass me when I got to an intersection between the normal route and the alternative one I had chosen. This way I was kept waiting at least 15 minutes without a very secure self belay. Once the way was clear I got back to the last 5 meters of grade IV, pulling the rope being the hardest part. I reached the ridge but couldn't make it to the bolts and made do with the ring anchors and pitons placed just at the end of the vertical stretch. From there one leg on each side of the rock I belayed in a much less than comfortable position.
After that it was just walking our way to the summit. The weather had been fantastic, blue skies, absent wind and high temperatures nearing 0 degrees. The snow was softening and on the East ridge it was getting rotten, on our way downhill to Nakadake pass the steep slope forced us to unclimb facing uphill and we had to kick 2 or 3 times for each step to be sure the snow would withstand our weights.
From the pass we went along Nakadake sawa all the way back to the hut. The slope was not so steep so it was even possible to run (at least I found that enjoyable). We returned to the tent and packed all the gear needed to spend the night. I ran most of the way back to the car in 50 minutes (summer course time = 1h40 from the hut so around 1h30 from the tent), at the end I weighted my backpack it read 28 kg. On the way I had passed several people all carrying packs minuscule in comparison with mine. It felt great.
Overall it was a great experience, with great weather.
More pictures here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8dPS_LBwxeLfldxaDBPN1BQcmRGbXRSbVE5eW5QdE8zX0VHckpabk9meVFwekFEN2ZSSE0&authuser=0
全景
-9,999 米
兴趣点
高峰
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